http://picasaweb.google.com/MarkSNewell/Kutch#
One of our most interesting days in Kutch, the western region of Gujarat state, was a full day of exploring several villages outside the city of Bhuj. We arranged a guide/rickshaw driver, Barat, who was such a sweet soul; we enjoyed our day 
with him immensely. We traveled along narrow bumpy single track roads through bushy, dry terrain dotted with the occasional plots of cotton and castor oil. We stopped in a large village with a huge contemporary Hindu Swaminaraya temple – so colorful and unlike other Hindu temples. Next we visited a small settlement where a tribal family (father and two sons and their wives) were weaving shawls and blankets. The colorful work was done on large looms similar in size to a grand piano. The family was in its fifth and sixth generation of weaving. Next on our tour with Barat was a visit to an extremely poor village. I find it difficult to describe my experience except that I was humbled by the welcome we received and uncomfortable in the contrast of knowing how fortunate my life is to have no want for food, access to good water and a wonderful home to go back to, not to mention the privilege of education, great jobs and unheard of recreational and leisure opportunities. Poverty can be found everywhere in India, but this was perhaps the first time we had sat in the homes or kitchens long enough for me to really take it in. These people seemed to have so little opportunity to improve their lives that it is likely that the same situation would continue for their children and grandchildren. The experience for me wasn't sad, though seeing the face of a very young girl, perhaps a year old, so covered in flies that she was clearly overwhelmed was very heart wrenching. Overall I found the visit sobering and something that will stay with me for a long time. I'm still left wondering what kind of assistance or access to resources would be helpful or appropriate and I don't think there are any easy answers. I have a new found appreciation for the challenges of community and economic development in such poor areas.
Many of the homes we visited were constructed from adobe-like earth bricks, and plastered with a sand, clay and cow dung mixture. Having studied and worked on cob buildings (cob is the English name for a building technique using clay, sand and straw, and can be found many places in Europe) it was very interesting to me to see similar technology being used in the dry regions of India. Kutch experienced a major earthquake in January 2001, when 20,000 people died and over 1.2 million homes were destroyed. The man who built these buildings said they were unmolested by the earthquake, save minor cracking, but I don't believe this to be true for all these adobe based buildings.
After lunch in the home of a friend of Barat's, we stopped at the workshop of a family of traditional bell makers. Dara and I fell in love with these melodious bells, once used for livestock, and brought some home with us. The next stop was in the home of a family of Rogan artists, an art form based on oil painting on fabric. This family of seven artisans is said to be the only remaining people who know this art form. We found it to be quite stunning. Our final stop of the day was a Rabari village that made lacquer ware. We were treated to a demonstration of wood turning using a bow to make a wooden spoon, which is then decorated with multiple layers of color.
It was a long and full day and on reflection, left me with a deep appreciation for the traditions and craftwork that have continued for generations, and grateful that in our modern world these crafts continue to be a source of livelihood and pride.
No comments:
Post a Comment